AT #4: Burke's Garden Hostel, VA to Daleville, VA

Since the beginning of my AT adventure, I have always chosen the end of May to do a section hike. However, because we had planned a family trip in France in May, mainly to introduce Henry, our grandson, to the French side of the family, I have decided this year to do my fourth section in Mid-April. I did not know what to expect in terms of weather but was not too nervous about that. After my flight to Johnson City, TN and a 2hrs drive, I arrived at the Burke’s Garden Hostel in the early afternoon. After a quick lunch and buying last minute hiking stuff (snacks and gas canister), I took off in the middle of a rain shower (!), hoping it will not be a preview of my hiking week.

It is always a great feeling and excitement for me each time I am back on the trail. To me, an adventure has to have three components: Stepping into the unknown, a physical and mental challenge, and some sorts of danger, whether perceived or real. The AT checks all of the boxes. Even though, after close to 600 miles done, I almost feel at home on the trail, I do not take anything for granted, and I am always careful  not to be too complacent.

The first 2.5 days of hiking were, as always, complicated, mainly due to body and mind trying to adapt to a somewhat harsh environment. But despite freezing temperatures at night and not a lot more warmer during the day, I managed to get to Woods Hole Hostel, 56 miles from the start. Temperature on Day 3 was 55F (12C) with strong and cold wind all day. Luckily, it would warm up the next day.  And also, I finally started day 4 with my trail legs, after a great night at the Rice Field shelter. It always amazes me how the body gets stronger, once you passed the adaptation period. I felt strong all day and, after another 24 miles in, I stopped at the War Spur shelter where I and other hikers enjoyed a camp fire. Life was good!

Day 5 was another 20 miles in, and between incredible views from the top of the mountain, some sketchy rock scrambling on the ledges and a beautiful snake encounter, it made for one special day on the AT. Day 6 was difficult, with yet another cold night at the shelter. It got warmer during the day but the terrain from Niday shelter to Four Pines Hostel was very rocky and relentless, especially on the way down after Dragon’s tooth. Going down that rocky wall was not fun at all and I was super happy to reach the hostel at the end of this brutal day.

After a short night, I started day 7 at 3:30am, to what would be my best and last day on the trail this year. I pushed hard but missed the sunrise at McAfee Knob, probably the most iconic view of the entire Appalachian Trail, but still got to see some incredible views from the top early in the morning. The rest of the hike was along the ridge with more views of the valley down below and another snake encounter. Then I finally exited the trail at Daleville, VA, after 27 miles slack packing.
​
This hiking week went by really quickly and without too much drama. After covering 160 miles, I’m now 1/3 of the way to Katahdin, ME. Still a long way to go but I’ll get there at some point!
 
Molokai (new trail name)  
On day 3, I met another hiker, Orangeman, who was taking a break. After he told me he was a swimmer dreaming of crossing the English Channel, I told him about my own Molokai Channel Swim a few months back. He was clearly very interested and we talked for a few more minutes about swim. When I left, I didn’t think I would see him again, but to my surprise,  I saw him twice in the next days and each time he would see me, he would say: “Hey Molokai!”.  That’s why I decided to change my trail name from Frogman to Molokai! I have to say that, out of the five adventures I’ve done so far, Molokai is the one I’m most proud of.